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What Is 'Ethical Underwear'?

From fast to fair - a fashion revolution

In recent years, the fashion industry has faced a much-needed reckoning. As consumers have grown more aware of the human and environmental costs of fast fashion, there has been a slowly accelerating shift towards more ethical and sustainable alternatives.

This shift has maybe been particularly evident in intimate apparel, with a growing number of largely small, independent ethical brands entering into the market to challenge the dominance and damaging practices of fast fashion giants like Victoria's Secret and SKIMS.

But what does it really mean when underwear is described as 'ethical'? Is it just a marketing term, or is there a meaningful difference in how 'ethical underwear' is made?

 

ZOEY wrap lingerie set by ColieCo Lingerie

 

At its core, ethical fashion goes beyond just the environment. It includes the human beings behind every stitch, seam, and fibre - the often-invisible workers who grow, spin, dye, cut, and sew our clothes. And it's these people we're going to focus on in this article. (We've covered the environmental factors addressed by ethical fashion in our sister post, What Is 'Sustainable Underwear'?)

As we'll see, to call a garment "ethically-made" means that it has been created in a culture demanding respect, fairness, and dignity across the supply chain contributing to its creation - from field through factory to the retail marketplace. So let’s break down what that culture looks like, especially in the context of underwear and lingerie...

 

1. Fair labour practices: the human heart of ethical fashion

The foundation of ethical underwear production begins with how workers across the supply chain are treated. Every garment we wear has ultimately passed through the hands of dozens of people - from farmers to textile dyers to garment technicians to retail assistants or warehouse workers. Fair labour practices are about ensuring that these people are not exploited in the process of making our clothes.

Fair wages

In many parts of the world, garment workers earn far below a living wage, despite working long hours in what are physically often extremely demanding conditions. Ethical brands commit to paying fair wages, meaning compensation that covers not only basic needs like food and shelter, but also allows for a decent quality of life, savings, and support for dependents.

Fair wages vary by region and cost of living, but they’re significantly higher than the legally mandated minimum wages in many countries. Ethical brands follow government guidelines on living (rather than minimum) wages, and work with local organisations or wage calculators (such as the Global Living Wage Coalition) to determine what is appropriate and fair remuneration.

Safe and comfortable working conditions

Garment factories in fast fashion supply chains are notorious for unsafe conditions. Stories of factory fires, structural collapses (like the horrific Rana Plaza disaster, which killed 1,134 people and left thousands more injured), and health hazards have filled headlines for years, and have even borne fashion activist organisations, like Fashion Revolution of the iconic #WhoMadeMyClothes campaign.

Ethical production demands that workplaces are clean, safe, and compliant with health and safety standards. That means proper ventilation, adequate lighting, access to drinking water, clean bathrooms, protective equipment, and signed fire exits.

Comfort matters too, particularly in lingerie production, where workers may spend hours handling delicate fabrics that require precision work and concentration. Ergonomic workspaces, adequate breaks, and reasonable working hours are essential to ensure both physical and mental well-being.

 

A woman holding a sign stating she doesn't want to die for fashion (image courtesy of Solidarity Center)

 

Respect for workers

True ethical production respects the dignity, rights, and autonomy of workers. That includes:

  • Freedom of association (the right to form and join unions)
  • Non-discrimination based on gender, race, age, or background
  • Zero tolerance for child or forced labour
  • Empowerment initiatives such as skills training and career development

For brands, this means choosing suppliers and partners who align with these values, and verifying that they’re upholding them (as well as adhering to them in their own in-house processes and facilities).

 

2. Ethical labour practices must span the entire supply chain

While we often think immediately of garment workers when we talk about labour rights in the context of the fashion industry, ethical responsibility begins at the very start of the supply chain.

Farmers and raw material producers

Ethical underwear made from virgin (i.e. non-recycled or reclaimed/upcycled) fabrics often starts with natural fibres like hemp, bamboo, organic cotton, or wood. But even the most eco-friendly of fibres isn’t truly sustainable if the people who harvest it are exploited. A huge proportion of cotton farmworkers, for example, face crushing debt, appalling working conditions and human rights violations - including many picking cotton which will eventually be labelled as 'organic'.

Ethical brands commit to sourcing from farms and plantations that offer humane working conditions and worker protections, and provide safe environments and fair compensation.

Spinners, dyers, and finishers

The transformation from raw material to fabric can involve a large number of steps, typically outsourced to different facilities, often in various different countries. Dyeing and fabric finishing can be particularly hazardous without proper equipment or environmental safeguards. Ensuring fair labour at this stage means selecting production partners who employ safe processes (including, for example, the careful control of what should be low hazard chemicals) and who treat their employees ethically, as we've previously described.

Packaging and distribution

Even the final stages of the end-to-end process, like packaging and shipping, can involve labour abuses if outsourced to unethical facilities or partners. Genuinely ethical brands map and monitor every link in the chain, from raw fibre to delivery.

In essence, ethics can’t be compartmentalised. If one part of the supply chain is exploitative, we cannot justify labelling the final product as "ethically-made".

 

Cotton farmworkers in the field

 

3. Traceability, accountability, and transparency

So how can a brand (and its customers) know that ethical standards are being met? That’s where traceability, accountability, and transparency come into play.

Traceability

Traceability means being able to map out and track the journey of a product - from farm to factory to finished garment. Ethical brands undertake supply chain mapping, recording who their suppliers are and where their materials come from, ideally all the way back to source materials. This visibility helps prevent labour abuses, de-incentivises (by directing funds away from) labour abusers, and allows brands to quickly respond if something goes wrong. (Details of the sources of all of the virgin and recycled fabrics we're currently using at ColieCo can be found on our About our Fabrics page.) 

In the lingerie industry, where smaller-scale brands, suppliers and subcontractors are common, traceability can be incredibly difficult to perform: brands have fewer resources to invest in undertaking what is heavily time-consuming and often difficult to complete work; smaller-scale suppliers suffer from the same issues as the brands; and larger-scale suppliers aren't heavily invested in responding to brands' requests for information.

Challenging though the work can be, it is essential in ensuring that no one is being exploited out of sight.

Accountability

Ethical production isn't just about having good intentions - it’s about setting clear standards and holding all stakeholders accountable. That includes:

  • Audits of factories and farms
  • Third-party verification of wages and working conditions
  • Corrective action plans when issues are found (which can mean changing suppliers)

Accountability also means owning up to mistakes and ensuring they aren't repeated. If a brand discovers a problem in its supply chain, transparency about the issue and a commitment to resolving it is essential in showing workers and customers alike the respect they deserve.

Transparency

Transparency is the outward-facing result of traceability and accountability. Ethical brands publicly and openly share information about where and how their products are made. That should include, at least:

  • Where garments are produced (by providing factory/facility lists)
  • Labour policies
  • Current third-party certifications or audit results

Brands serious about monitoring and controlling ethical standards up and down their supply chains will also publish documentation setting out those standards in the public domain. (For ColieCo, that's our Code of Ethics and Conduct, which outlines outlines our values and ethical principles, and sets out the standards which all of those working for and on behalf of ColieCo must follow.)

When brands are vague or secretive about their production practices, it's a giant red flag. Fuzzy promises come easy; brands who can be proud of their production processes document them for their customers and other stakeholders to see.

Transparency not only fosters trust and allows consumers to make informed choices; in raising the bar, it also plays a vital role in holding the industry's underperformers to account.

 

4. Certifications and standards

Certifications are one of the most effective ways to verify ethical claims. While not perfect, they provide a standardised way to assess labour practices and give consumers confidence in a brand’s claims.

Here are some of the key certifications and standards to look out for that matter in ethical underwear and lingerie production:

Fairtrade

Fairtrade operates across various industries, and is one of fashion's most well-known certifications. For textiles, Fairtrade focuses primarily on the farming stage - ensuring that farmers receive fair prices and that farmworkers work in safe, equitable conditions. Some Fairtrade-certified garments also come from Fairtrade-certified factories, where additional labour standards apply.

SA8000

Developed by Social Accountability International, the SA8000 Standard is a comprehensive social certification standard that addresses a raft of labour issues, including:

    • Working hours and compensation
    • Child and forced labour
    • Health and safety
    • Freedom of association
    • Discrimination

SA8000 is one of the most respected frameworks for ethical factory practices and is audited regularly by accredited bodies. (It's also the minimum standard required of ColieCo's fabric suppliers, in accordance with our Code of Ethics and Conduct.)

 

A man with a clipboard performing an audit

 

WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)

WRAP focuses specifically on the apparel industry, ensuring that factories operate in lawful, humane, and ethical ways. Their principles cover wages, hours, health and safety, and environmental practices. WRAP certification is particularly useful for brands that outsource manufacturing but want third-party assurance of responsible practices.

SANE Standard

A newer and increasingly relevant certification, the SANE Standard (Social And Nature Ethics) takes a holistic approach.

SANE integrates both social and environmental criteria to ensure that both production facilities and products are not only people-friendly but also planet-friendly. Certified products are required to meet the highest standards in environmental impact, respective workers' rights, and consumer health.

For a lingerie brand that prioritises ethical and sustainable production equally, the SANE Standard provides well-rounded assurance. (At ColieCo, we're incredibly proud to be able to say that our garment production facility and all of our lingerie and underwear sets, bras, panties, bodysuits and swimwear are SANE Standard certified. Learn more here.)

 

Why it matters

At the end of the day, underwear and lingerie are the most intimate forms of clothing we wear. They touch our skin, support our bodies, and shape how we feel. Choosing ethically produced underwear is about aligning that intimacy with integrity - knowing that no one was harmed or exploited in the process of creating something so personal.

It’s also about redefining beauty in fashion, not just in terms of how garments look, but in how they’re made. Ethical fashion reflects a world where fairness, well-being, and human dignity are as important as design and fit.

As a conscious consumer, asking questions - Who made this? Were they treated fairly? What systems are in place to protect them? - is a powerful act. And as a brand, answering those questions with honesty and intention is part of the commitment to always striving to do better.

In summary: what makes underwear 'ethically produced'?

  • Respecting workers’ rights through fair wages, safe conditions, and dignity at work
  • Applying those values across the supply chain, from farm to consumer
  • Committing to traceability, accountability, and transparency across operations
  • Adhering to recognised certifications and standards like Fairtrade, SA8000, WRAP, and the SANE Standard

At ColieCo, we're serious about each and every one of those factors listed above.  You can learn more about our commitment to ethical production here, find further details about our SANE Standard certification here, and read our Code of Ethics and Conduct here.

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